REVIEW: Archery Bistro Hits The Target With Neighborhood Warmth, Uptown Style And Devotion
by There is no question Seattle is an amazing city for food, drink and great places to go out, get out, hang out and hang loose. But here’s the drawback:
What happens if you don’t live in the city?
Fortunately, Dan Thiessan of Bellevue’s 08 Seafood Grill and Twisted Cork Wine bar was wondering much the same thing, so he brought a bit of neighborhood warmth, uptown style and devotion to dining out fundamentals — such as making people happy — to those of us here in the south end.
Archery Bistro Owner/Chef Dan Thiessan
I had the privilege of spending last Thursday night at Archery Bistro (formerly Cafe Mia). I didn’t know what to expect really. “Ooh. Ahh. A new place in Normandy Park,” I thought. I am now amending my original thought by adding a few more “h’s” after that initial ooh and ahh.
I don’t care if you’re a smalltown to downtown meat & potatoes lover, a seafood fan only interested in the market list or the “go out of your way to try the one thing you haven’t seen on a menu elsewhere” type. The diverse but unpretentious menu here gives a nod to them all. While Archery doesn’t skimp when it comes to a solid array of beer, traditional as well as upscale soft drinks and liquor, it is the wine that will win you over. There’s a wine list designed to pair well with whatever might be on your plate. But if you don’t know what to choose, that’s not a problem. Feel free to leave the Sommelier lingo at the door if it’s not your mother tongue. Dan and his staff have you covered there. Just tell them what you like. The wine list is extensive yet unintimidating with price point being under twelve dollars by the glass and bottles in the $24 to $50 range.
The kitchen shared generously with us that night. High points go to the “crab no cake” crab cakes with the ribbon-thin drizzle of apple aioli giving the sweet densely packed meat perfect tang. This isn’t the Panko proffered version you might be used to. It’s just densely-packed loveliness encased in a golden brown sear from the pan. Oh and for those of you who don’t like greenery, you’re missing a bet if you don’t eat the Fuji apple and watercress slaw that comes with it. This is one time no one is going to have to make you eat your vegetables.
Seared beef tenderloin with Asian cocktail sauce and dikon-carrot salad.
The Cowboy Beef Tenderloin — emphasis on the word tender — had a dry rub that could very well make our counterparts south of the Mason-Dixon Line want to sit up and take note! The tenderloin was carefully prepared, juicy and darkly flavorful. The coffee ground rub put a confident spin on what is sure to be a crowd favorite.
My guest and I also got to try the artfully brined cedar-planked Salmon that flaked perfectly, along with the Apple wood Smoked Pork with the Mushroom Forest Hash (the Pork Chops and applesauce Bobby Brady would only hope to try) and a Squash Soup whose flavor embodies winter time cozy and a texture that could only be described as velveteen.
If you can pull yourself away from focusing on your meal, you’ll note the tribute the décor pays to Glen St. Charles of Northwest Archery fame. Warmly hued wood, subtle touches from the St. Charles’ museum and a beautifully executed wine rack display instantly lend itself the overall dining experience.
The restaurant hasn’t even been open a month, but I noticed staff and patrons are already exchanging first names in greeting, good byes and all that’s in between. Keep an eye out for this place. The commitment to community, its customers and high quality cuisine is quite a gift to us here in the south end this holiday season.
See what happens when you make it onto Santa’s “nice” list?
Here’s a Photo Slideshow of the Archery Bistro by Michael Brunk:
Archery Bistro is located in the Normandy Park Town Centre at 19803 1st Ave. South, Suite 104 in Normandy Park.
Their hours are:
- Lunch: Monday through Friday, 11 a.m. – 2 p.m.
- Dinner: Nightly, 5 p.m. – 9 p.m.
- Happy Hour: Daily, 4 p.m. – 6 p.m.; 9 p.m. – Close
- Bar: Daily, 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.
Their phone number is 206.429.3145.
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We tried to eat on New Years Eve, but they were closed for a private party. Figured we would try again on Saturday at 4:30 and was told they were not open yet and to come back at 5! Really???? SInce your a new business, why not let us have a cocktail in the bar while we wait, make us feel welcome, not like we are going to a pancake house.
Not sure when or if we will try again.
Your review reads more like an ad or promo. You really had nothing even slightly critical to say? That sets a very high bar for dining expectations. Here’s what we experienced last night: Warm greeting, friendly staff although a bit slow given the restaurant was hardly full. Comfy and cozy atmosphere, the only thing missing was a fireplace. Wine list is indeed good but could have featured more Washington or NW Wines – talk to our friends at Corky Cellars.Per glass prices were fairly typical.
Fresh list menu was very inviting, good variety. Our test of a new restaurant is to pick at least one standard item and see how well they do it. We chose the Calamari. Nice and crispy but more batter than squid. Aioli was really good with it. We had the same entrees as you – Cedar Planked salmon and the Pork Tenderloin. Both were perfectly cooked and very flavorful but sadly both the risotto and the mushroom hash were so heavily salted they were not edible. I gauge issues like this with how well the staff responds when told. We received immediate apology- no defensiveness- and were offered a comp desssert along with confirmation that the chef agreed with us. These days, less salt is best but allow folks to add. Speaking of which we found no salt and pepper on the tables. No biggie.
The comp dessert arrived – the apple tart- and looked really lovely. Taste wise it was not very exciting. An overly almond pasted crust that over powered the apple flavor, and I believe it said it had a caramel topping but we found none, just a jelly like glaze. Big points for presentaion.
So all in all we found a few stumbles but a great menu and a friendly, helpful staff with a cozy environment. We’ll try the bar next time and we previewed the lunch menu which looks good. We are very happy to find a slightly upscale new place in the area. Well, more than happy, we’re delighted! The Archery Bistro folks will iron out the stumbles and soon you’ll need a reservation. Luckily for now, you don’t.